This is an amazing place. Alcoholism and petrol sniffing is so bad that Alice has adopted its own rules in terms of purchasing alcohol from its liquor stores and offers a low aromatized fuel option at the pumps called Opal. Firstly, you can't purchase more than $100 of liquor in one transaction, can only purchase port or fortified wine during the last three hours of business and only one bottle a day. You have to hand over your Driver's License or other ID to the clerk when you purchase your liquor so they can scan it into the system. Your details are held for 24 hrs so you can't simply visit another liquor outlet and purchase more. Many of the aboriginal communities have banned alcohol but there is no one there to enforce it so alcohol still makes it through (...especially on 'pay day' - when the dole cheques are collected). The $100 a day transaction rule was meant to cut down on the entreprenerial sorts (Grog runners) who would buy a truck load and then re-sell it in the communities at a significant mark up. I drove one of the clinic bus drivers home the other day and had the opportunity of getting his perspective on the current Aboriginal situation. He was quite forthright and suprised me, saying that when he was growing up, there were far more athletic role models, especially in AFL, but that these mentors have fallen by the wayside or died (? in their 50's?). As such, the young aboriginees growing up in Amoonguna have few heros or mentors to look up to for guidance. Aside from the obvious runny noses and often unkempt and dirty appearance, the kids have a spirit and composure so different from any other kids I've managed in the past. They seem to be somewhat impervious to pain and suffering as well, evidenced by a couple of littlees I've recently seen with rip roaring ear infections/bulging ear drums and perforations and a smile on their face. The thin little tykes seem to be highly coordinated as well - like born athletes - if only they could be nurtured to play some sport and get motivated to do so I think we'd see some amazing feats!
Jen and the kids have been getting focussed on school-work this week as they've pretty much done most of the kid-friendly things to do in Alice. They visited the old Women's Gaol (read 'jail' - for you Canadians) the other day and Aidan wrote in his journal that he was glad he wasn't badly behaved when he was younger as he wouldn't have wanted to end up in there! I didn't want to point out the obvious as he tends to get rather sensitive about his journal at times. Yesterday they visited a weaving collective which filled Jen with 'Health Promotion' vigour and hope as it represented a component of health we so often overlook when trying to 'close the gap'. The story is that some women in a local aboriginal community decided to start traditional weaving again and to start selling their wares as craft in some of the local galleries. It was their idea and their efforts that made it happen and it has been quite successful. Rather than having something imposed upon them and therefore having no ownership or pride in their work, they'd created something from nothing and have spread their work and skills to other communities where willing weavers have also come on board. Having a purpose seems to be a rather integral component to their health and well-being as it makes taking care of oneself a worthy goal. Like in Canada, the government has provided housing and infrastructure to its indigenous population, essentially throwing money their way to try to improve living conditions and thereby, the health of their communities,yet the removal of their sense of purpose and raison d'etre from prior injustices is something that is not easily remedied and as such health outcomes continue to falter. It's like we need to somehow instill our indigenous/poorer populations with the capacity to develop their own projects or programs so they are empowered to do so and can take control of their own destinies rather than having it 'doled' out as lip-service to development.
Speaking of which... I had the opportunity yesterday evening of visitng the Centre for Remote Health here in Alice. It appears that Prof Wakerman, the fellow we had lunch with last Sunday, is actually the director of this incredible centre and has scores of publications to his name including chapters on remote health in various textbooks. In a way its like the mailboy hob-knobbing with the CEO - not sure how I managed to eke my way into being taken serious enough to make the acquaintance and be invited for a tour of the facility. I was utterly impressed and deeply inspired - one needs these re-affirmations now and again to move to the next stage of life. Aside from hob-knobbing, I've been busy planning the Queensland leg of our grand tour as that period of our trip will be closing in on the 28th of June when we finally depart this fine land. It's looking to be a rippa!
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